Best of 2008: Magazine Diversity

No end of the year round up would be complete without mentioning the huge increase in Magazine Diversity in 2008.
The year saw traditional glossies questioning their industry (gently prodded by Bethann Hardison), and turning inward to ask, "Where's the color?" Perhaps in the Obama era, magazines are seeing that it's time to get real and reflect the demographics of their country.
After a controversial Lebron James cover caused a critical wildfire in cyberspace, Fashion Bible Vogue took their July issue to ask if Fashion was Racist:
After fashionistas answered, "Yes!" Vogue decided to walk the walk with several spreads, even including Arlenis Pena, Oluchi Orlandi and Lakshmi Menon in a story on the industry's rising stars:

Harper's Bazaar also jumped on the multicultural bandwagon, with Tyra Banks gracing their September cover and posing as Michelle Obama in a fun multi pager:

And with the Williams sisters rocking couture on the court for Bazaar's November issue:

American mags did their part, but no one showed more love than the Italians, who plucked style aficionado Diddy as their cover boy for the October Issue of L'Uomo Vogue:
...and who knocked everyone out the park with Vogue Italia's All Black July Issue, featuring Naomi Campbell, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede, Tyra Banks, Toccara Jones and more:

The issue launched Facebook Groups, started discussions, and caused fashionistas worldwide to scramble for collector's copies. A Time article by Jeff Israely said, "After the original run of the July issue sold out in the U.S. and U.K. in 72 hours, Vogue Italia has just rushed to reprint 30,000 extra copies for American newsstands, another 10,000 for Britain and 20,000 more in Italy." Cha Ching!
2008 was THE YEAR for magazine diversity, and we can only hope the Fashion Powers are finally understanding that multiculturalism is not only beautiful, powerful, and profitable, but it's also the future. As ad pages dwindle, it's best to be as inclusive as possible-we notice!
Didn't you?
Bisous!
*Shout to Jezebel for Italian Vogue scans.
*If you're a mag hag, I highly recommend reading the blog Make Fetch Happen. Brigitte sifts through your favorite glossies with a fine toothed comb, and offers well informed, witty opinions.

Out of Fashion: Absence of Color

Hey!

So last night, I attended another 'Absence of Color' forum organized and moderated by Bethann Hardison.

If you've been reading for a while, you'd know that this is the third talk in an action minded series focused on the lack of ethnic models on catwalks, in magazines, and gracing the covers of publications.

The first forum was open to about seventy well plucked people, and included the likes of Tyson, Iman, Liya Kebede, and Naomi Campbell...

The second talk, at the New York Public Library...
...was open to the public, and was therefore packed to the brim with about 200 people, including the utterly talented designer Tracy Reese...

...and writer Michaela Angela Davis.
The third, last night, had the biggest showing yet...
...about 275 designers, editors, journalists, models, and model agents packed into the Bowery Hotel to rally for the cause.
The numbers are slowly starting to grow, signaling a real movement. Instead of this issue being talked about then swept under the rug, Bethann is making it a point to mobilize, get answers, and hold people accountable. I can't tell you how many representatives from modeling agencies, as well as stylists and designers stood up to defend their practices, or promise to do better (The creative director of Ford Models was there, as well as the head of the North American division of Elite, who offered $1,000 to sponsor the next forum).

An interesting note: Andre Leon Talley wrote in from campaigning for Barack in Chicago to say, "This struggle is so important to all of us on so many levels...We must continue to dialogue, as a change we can believe in has to happen." Andre, whose New Years fashion resolution was to, "order custom Charvet tennis picque shorts and silk kneesocks the color of clotted cream," is down for the cause (and for Barack)? Really? Well, it's good to know that he's behind this. Hopefully he can start rocking the boat a bit with his buddy Anna over at Vogue--but let's hope he doesn't fall out!

So the talk got underway, and a few fashion models took the stage...
...to voice their concerns. It seemed as if every model had the same exact story: They have a look and an amazing portfolio, go to modeling agencies seeking work, but are told that the agency already has 'one black girl' and they don't need another.

Damon Dash also rolled through with Jim Jones....
..and talked about the importance of mentoring in the industry (I think he put it as 'We need to watch each other's backs'). Good point. It seemed as if representatives from every facet of the industry were there. If we all made it a point to bestow a bit of knowledge on each other, reach up instead of pulling down, we could move the issue forward at a heightened pace.

While a 'conclusion' was not reached, this talk won't be the last. Bethann promises to continue having these to let people air their grievances (I have a few...), and motivate until something concrete is accomplished (i.e. more ethnic models on catwalks, more designers of color, more editors of color, more diversity in the fashion industry as a whole).

With Fashion Week about a week away, it's going to be interesting to ONCE AGAIN see if diversity has increased on the catwalks (and in the tents). I'll keep an eye peeled!

Smootches!

Fashion, News, and What Nots

*On a related note, Fashion Bomb reader Leigh recently wrote me the following, "I am currently a student in Pennsylvania but I'll be moving back to NYC in May. Do you know of any modeling agencies that are friendly to African American women? It would be great to get a few modeling jobs to help pay expensive NYC bills. I am not runway thin by any means, but print work or agencies looking for thin and athletic women would be the most helpful. Even if you do not know any agencies I still appreciate your time and effort." From last night's talk, Leigh, your prospects are looking quite dim, but reps from Elite and Ford were there, so try knocking on their doors. Anyone else have any pointers?

*Want to recap? Read about the first meeting here, and the second meeting here. Don't know Bethann? Read my post about her here.

*For the next one, I'll make sure to post the invite so that every single one of you in New York can come (we can have a Fashion Bomb contingent!).
*Valentino...
...waves goodbye to the Fashion World [Reuters]
*Luxury Labels hit in the Pocketbook [Wall Street Journal--Subscription]
*Cathy Horyn...
...on the Chanel Show. [NYTimes]

NYPL Talk: Blacks In Fashion Part Two

"Designers aren't thinking about the world or diversity of their consumer base. I think it's lazy...We have a broad audience we're selling too, but to not address that on a runway is old-fashioned, and we're in the business of making fashion."--Tracy Reese.

Hey, hey!
So as you know, last night I attended Part Deux of the "Blacks in Fashion" Forum.
I made my way over to the New York Public Library at 6:30...and the room eventually became quite crowded...
...with fashionistas and fashionistos.
A few luminaries came out.
Vera Wang surprisingly made an appearance....
...(those are horrible pictures, I know, but she didn't stick around long enough afterwards for me to formally ask for a picture)...
A very vocal Iman was in the front row...
...and tons of others (including a few Fashion Bomb Readers!) filled the seats.
The talk got underway, with designer Tracy Reese, Stylist Lori Goldstein, casting agent James Scully, and model agent David Ralph on the panel....
...Bethann Hardison moderated.
If you remember the first meeting, I'd say that similar issues were addressed: how editors believe black covers don't sell; designers don't request ethnic models; black models compete against each other (hear that Tyra and Naomi!); agents don't feel they need more than one black girl; and how image makers don't have an eye or recognize black beauty.

Though the discussion started off reiterating a lot of the same issues, it eventually seemed to go a step further by addressing the large role magazine editors play in filling editorial pages with diversity, and how that affects the runway. If you remember the article from jezebel.com, you'd recall that a whopping 7 out of the 9 major fashion magazines totally lacked black models in their editorial pages for the month of October. Sad.

Instead of crying 'Racism' a la Vivienne Westwood, Wendell Brown, a senior fashion editor of color at Esquire magazine made a great observation: he knows from experience that sometimes editors at these magazines just don't think of including a person of color until someone in the room mentions it. Meaning these editors aren't discriminatory per se, just unaware. Seems they just need someone on staff to gently remind them.
Interesting....
The talk went on for a good two hours, and eventually photographer Marc Baptiste asked the big question: "What's the Solution?"

Bethann stated that her goal was simply to get people talking: to get bloggers buzzing, major newspapers writing (thanks Kenya Hunt and Guy Trebay) and to make the world at large aware of this very serious problem.
Mission accomplished! Take a look at the front page of your local metro newspaper...
Hopefully the dialogue won't end here.
Afterwards I went down and chit chatted with a few of fashion's finest.
Yaya from ANTM fame showed her support...
As did Harriette Cole, Creative Director of Ebony magazine....
...Beverly Smith, the former Fashion Editor at large for Vibe magazine, and current judge on BET J's My Model is better than Your Model came through....
...and brought a couple Fashion Bomb readers with her!
And I of course had to snap a few pictures! I caught up with Michaela Angela Davis (founding Fashion Director of Vibe Magazine, former Fashion Director and Editor in Chief of Honey Magazine)...
Robin Givhan (Pulitzer prize winning Fashion Editor for the Washington Post)....
Tracy Reese (super duper dope Fashion Designer)
and Bethann herself!
Yay!
I told them all about the Fashion Bomb. Hopefully they'll be tuning in today!
Smootches!
Fashion News and What Nots:
*Speaking of designers of color, Kimora’s KLS line is popping up on every red carpet.
Here, Anna Kournikova and Mya rock the same KLS dress.

Who looked more FAB (FAshion Bomb)?
*USA Today reports that several US Cities are balking over baggy pants. Guys still wear those?
*YBF reports that Rihanna....

and J. Lo...

...both nabbed November covers. It's a start!

You Should Know: Bethann Hardison

After she closed her agency in 1996, people told her the modeling business was slipping without her. “I didn’t want that responsibility,” she says. “The New York Times interviewed me and they wanted to know what was going to happen to all the people I’d helped. And that, at the time, was people of color. And I was like, they’re fine, they’re gonna be fine. And honey, little by little, it has died.”--About Bethann Hardison, New York Magazine

Hey,
So I received so many great, reflective comments from my last post, that I really didn't think I could go back to my standard fair immediately. Yep, the Emmy's were last night, but I decided that I'd give you a bit of something that you wouldn't find anywhere else.
So Bethann Hardison organized and acted as moderator for the panel discussion I attended last Friday. To be honest, even I didn't know who she was when I sat down....
But this is a woman that you must know if you have any interst in fashion or fashion history. Bethann was a huge model in the 60's and 70's, and did a lot to diversify the industry, later, as a model agent.
According to this article, Hardison grew up in Brooklyn in a family of devout Muslims. She was always known for rocking the boat: she was her high school's first African American cheerleader, and was the first African American salesperson to work a New York City garment district showroom.
Designer Willi Smith met her in an elevator, and asked her to model for him. That opportunity led to more, and she eventually became one of a small group of black models in the early 1970's who worked for huge European designers and had spreads in Vogue (yes, Vogue), and Harper's Bazaar.
After modeling, she became an agent, first at an agency called Click and afterwards for her own company, Bethann Management. She focused on models of color, and apparently made the careers of Veronica Webb, Talisa Soto, and Tyson Beckford, and was “like a coach” to Naomi Campbell.
It seems Bethann is no stranger to holding conferences. She held something similar to the forum last Friday in the early 90's, and skewered the top players in fashion for subtle racism. Apparently, a few months later Naomi Campbell became the first woman of African descent to grace the cover of Allure... Seeing that Bethann is 'results oriented,' I'm hoping that this conference effects a similar positive change on the industry. It's about time!
Stay tuned for further developments...
Smootches
PS Another little fun fact: Bethann is Kadeem Hardison's mother. Remember 'Dwayne Wayne' from 'A Different World.'????

So funny!
PSS Read more about Bethann here.

The Revolution will be Blogged: Blacks in Fashion

Happy Friday!
Sorry for the late post, I’ve had a very busy morning. Why did you have a busy morning, Claire? Well, I’ll tell you.
Last night, I was delighted to get a text from my designer friend Malcolm Harris, alerting me to a forum discussion taking place today, subject: Blacks in Fashion. I quickly said “Sign me up!” and made my way over.
Upon walking in, I caught sight of many fashion notables. I’ll be honest, I almost lost my mind, I was in the company of such greatness.
Sitting right behind me were the following journalistic juggernauts:
Andre Leon Talley (far left), Teri Agins of the Wall Street Journal, Robin Givhan of the Washington Post (obscured), and Harriette Cole, creative director of Ebony Magazine. Oh yeah, and that’s Malcolm with the Peace Sign.
After I sat down, more and more people filtered in.
Tyson made an appearance:
Naomi Campbell (who actually ended up sitting right behind me!) offered her support:
Liya Kebede (gorgeous and so super nice) was in the house:
As was Iman…
Designer Tracy Reese…

Rachel Roy…
And Ebay Fashion Director Constance White…
It was truly an amazing showing, and I was excited to be there.
Industry veteran Bethann Hardison …
…took the floor as the moderator. She’s a former model, so her pet peeves centered around the ‘black model issue.’ She hated that designers felt that having one black supermodel was sufficient; that people believe black women on covers won’t sell; that agents won't represent black models; that designers are not conscious of diversity; and that blacks and others in positions of power don’t recognize a problem.

The talk revealed that the Fashion industry is extremely discriminatory and is also the only industry that is allowed to reject people outright based on color. Think about it: If a model sues Calvin Klein for not casting her, she'll never work again. If a journalist sues a huge publishing house for not hiring her, she'll have trouble getting published. In an industry based on networking, it's best not to burn bridges...better to stay quiet and complicit (though that really doesn't help the problem).

Doesn’t bode well at all for an aspiring fashion editor of color…

The forum was a bit mind boggling because the problem is complex: agents don’t search for black models because they don’t think they can sell; designers don’t book black models because they feel no need to; magazine editors don’t pick black models because, once again, they don’t think they’ll sell magazines. This is all a farce because we know black women like fashion (hello!) and spend freely. The problem is alerting the powers that be to our presence, beauty, and spending power. I mean, even Naomi Campbell revealed that she hasn't been able to score a cover of British Vogue...and that the only reason she scored French Vogue was because her buddy Yves Saint Laurent threatened to pull all advertising if she didn't get it. Yep, even Naomi Campbell has problems.

The conclusion of the talk was such: The group of highly influential people assembled (including Andre Leon Talley, Naomi Campbell, Tracy Reese, Constance White) would attend the next Council of Fashion Designers of America meeting to address this issue. Apparently Diane von Furstenberg (president of the CFDA) is game.
Stay tuned for developments...
Fashion figureheads are really trying to rock the boat (hopefully)!
Will anything change?
Smootches!
PS Of course I made my way over the Andre Leon Talley, and told him of my sincere desire to work at Vogue. He promised that we’d chat afterwards, but after the talk, he disappeared! Like...Casper. Is this part of the problem?
PSS Malcolm seems to think that the power to change things lies in the new generation, us. What do you think? Is there a problem in your opinion? Do you want to see more blacks in mainstream magazines? Or do we just want Suede back?